Trailing-edge Riveting

From Matronics

< RV Construction FAQ

There are several places on the RV ailerons and elevators where the tight spacing of the rib flanges makes setting a solid rivet difficult. The plans allow blind rivets to be used in these locations, but some builders prefer to use solid rivets.

Tapered bucking bar.
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Tapered bucking bar.

One method for setting these rivets is to grind a narrowly-tapered bucking bar, as shown in the photo (left), that will fit easily between the rib flanges.

Some builders have successfully used an axe blade.

Control surface jigged up on back-riveting plate.
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Control surface jigged up on back-riveting plate.

Next, place the control surface on the workbench on top of your back-riveting plate. This photo shows a finished piece, but when you begin the last few rivets would be in the holes, not yet set. Clamp the control surface carefully in place using shims, as shown. The rest of the control surface needs to be supported so that it remains level. You don't want scratches from the edges of your back-riveting plate.

Tapered bucking bar in positon.
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Tapered bucking bar in positon.

Now place the tapered bucking bar onto the rivet you want to buck. Although it's not shown in this photo, the opposite end of the bucking bar is supported by tapered shims, so that it sits flat, perpendicular to the axis of the rivet.

While carefully holding the bucking bar, strike it with a dead-blow hammer. Two or three good hits will set the rivet nicely. Check and reposition the bucking bar between each hit, as there is a chance the bar will slip off the rivet after each blow. Proceed carefully, because there is significant risk of hitting the edge of the control surface with the hammer.